For some reason, I was real hesitant to start on the drapes.  I don't know why...maybe it was an attitude of "if you don't start, you can't fail!"  I have sewn all my life, just never made drapes before...I really don't know why I was so freaked-out, but I was. 

Once I finally got started and committed to how I was going to make them, it really wasn't a problem...I just kept reminding myself to "measure twice & cut once!"

The drapery fabric is actually a lightweight crepe upholstery fabric...pretty heavy-duty but the sunlight still came through so I decided to line them with a lightweight drapery lining.

We really wanted to stick with a "pinch-pleated" look, like the original drapes...I just didn't want to do all the pleats by hand...so I used a drapery tape & pleater hooks by Conso  

The key was to find the ones with the hook at the top...most of them have the hook part set down about 1/2" from the top which wouldn't work with the existing drapery tabs & top valance.

The hooks measure just under 3" overall.

The tape measures about 3" and the pocket spacing is approximately 5/8"

After hand hemming the drapery front and machine sewing the lining & tape in place I spaced the hooks using every third pocket, then left five open pockets between each pleat.  This gave a fullness of about 2 to 2-1/2 times the width

Ta-Da! 

Now I just have to finish the front & back windows...then train the pleats.

  Since it was apparent the previous drapes had had a "little mishap" with the stove, we decided to get a mini-blind for the window at the galley...I can't believe they actually had drapes there before! 

 Rob adapted a few of the old drapery slides by removing the hook loop and attaching a small painted block of wood.

To this he attached the mini-blind brackets and we slid them into the drapery track. 

 

All this was done without damaging the interior skin or valance.

Because of the curvature of the wall, we opted to use the hold-down clips...these we did have to use two screws to attach them.

The handles and lock are both unaffected by the blind...the blind does have to be raised to access them however, but by mounting the blind in the track rather than attaching it to the wall, they do not protrude into the blind...either in the open or closed position.

  We ordered the aluminum micro-mini from...

 
#31 Polished Aluminum

click on icon for link

They had the best price we could find and it only took 10 days to receive it.

Next, another mini-project...the Shower Curtain ~

We did not have a shower curtain at all when we got Maxwell... so I don't know what the original ones are like, pattern wise.  I decided that I was just going to "fake-it" for awhile.  Fortunately, we do have some tabs...whether or not they are "original"....the jury is still out. 

 

They are just little plastic jobbies, about 5/8-3/4" long with a round bead running the length that fits in the track. 

I got an inexpensive vinyl curtain @ Bed, Bath & Beyond it's clear, so I don't get too claustrophobic, but it looks like bubbles are on it.  I made a template of the curve along the track on the ceiling and cut the curtain down to fit...its about 4' wide with the curve on the top.  I then stitched a 1/4" bias tape along the newly cut edges to reinforce them, then attached the plastic tabs at about 6" o.c.

It's passable for now...I would someday like to make a "new" fabric-type one, once I have a better idea of the original pattern looks like.  There were these suspicious snaps inside the shower stall...my guess is that they were to wrap the curtain around to better protect the sink area from overspray...we have removed them for now.

In a lot of the pictures I have seen to the vintage trailers, the shower curtain seems to be always bunched up over the sink...out of a scrap of the trim fabric, I made a tie back with grommets to keep the curtain in place.

I love getting down to these mini-projects....makes me feel that we are almost done...at least with the inside!